The London-based designer Liza Keane launched her namesake label after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2022. She creates sensual and protective pieces with a deep commitment to the art of fashion and the body. Her inspirations—ranging from Jung and Bataille to sculpture and personal experience—culminate in a vision of a dark yet romantic world.

 

We had a conversation with Liza to better understand her brand's philosophical influences, the story of her newest collection, Ruined and the opposing forces that shape her work.

Many of your garments reference literature and philosophy, such as the Freudian slip dress, Shadow top, and Tears of Eros sweatpants. How do you think language and fashion have a dialogue in your work?

LIZA: Well fashion is a language - arguably the most immediate form of social communication we have. Both fashion and language are systems of signification, capable of revealing, concealing, and oscillating between meaning and absence. I’m drawn to that tension, to the way clothing can seduce, not just through the body but through suggestion, subversion, and double meanings.

 

I like the way Baudrillard talks about seduction and language. He describes seduction as a form of covert power that employs symbols that don’t just communicate, they withhold, tease, and destabilize. The most compelling things exist in that liminal space between revelation and secrecy, inviting interpretation but never fully surrendering to a singular definition. My work operates in that realm—garments that don’t just sit idly on the body but whisper dark little jokes, provoke, and engage on multiple levels—visually, emotionally, conceptually. There’s an immediate sensuality, but beneath that, a quiet pull to look again, to rethink, to be drawn in further.

 

Humor plays a role too! I love the interplay of a half-joke, half-confession. So a printed phrase isn’t just a reference (puns in particular); it’s a provocation, a slip of the tongue that exposes something deeper; some inherent nature or an underlying quality that might otherwise remain hidden. You mentioned the Freudian Slip, which is basically a slip dress (traditionally/historically hovering between modesty and exposure, often existing for the visual pleasure of the male gaze) — but in my one, it’s printed with a naked body and the words “Freudian Slip” at the hip line, playing on the classic linguistic error where an unconscious thought escapes into speech. I think it’s just kinda funny, but it’s also about reframing exposure—both of the body and the psyche. The dress doesn’t just reference Freud; it performs the slip itself, making the wearer a spectacle of revelation, but it does so in a way that recontextualizes that exposure as an act of defiance and provocation. It redirects the gaze from the observer back to the wearer.

 

 

In Georges Bataille's Tears of Eros, one of the themes he discusses is a connection between death, eroticism, and the sacred. Bataille sees sacrifice as a way to access the sacred through violence, mirroring the way eroticism breaks down barriers through transgression. The book seems to be a key influence for you and I noticed in your mood boards a lot of imagery that reflected these themes. What do they mean to you and your work? How does sacrifice relate to this for you?

LIZA: Bataille is my soulmate! Haha. He’s such a tragic thinker, but so raw and enlivening at the same time. I see a lot of his views reflected in myself: a kind of dark romanticism, extreme obsessiveness and a generally anxious disposition.

 

When you read him it’s like you put your finger on the pulse of life. And every now and then you get these kind of annihilating glimpses of the darkness and wilderness of human experience. It’s devastating, and yet it kind of quickens you to life all in the same breath. I love it!

 

The relationship between eroticism and death is likewise central to my work. There’s always this push-and-pull between control and surrender, power and vulnerability. A sense of this drama in motion - veiling and unveiling, and that tension is where desire emerges. Bataille understood that beauty and destruction aren’t opposing forces—they feed into each other, creating something richer, more complex, more dangerous.

 

 

"[...] ‘every now and then you get these kind of annihilating glimpses of the darkness and wilderness of human experience. "

Liza Keane - ruined SS25, bts


Interview: Kai Todt

Producer: Katy Shayne

 

 

The London-based designer Liza Keane launched her namesake label after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2022. She creates sensual and protective pieces with a deep commitment to the art of fashion and the body. Her inspirations—ranging from Jung and Bataille to sculpture and personal experience—culminate in a vision of a dark yet romantic world.

 

We had a conversation with Liza to better understand her brand's philosophical influences, the story of her newest collection, Ruined and the opposing forces that shape her work.


Many of your garments reference literature and philosophy, such as the Freudian slip dress, Shadow top, and Tears of Eros sweatpants. How do you think language and fashion have a dialogue in your work?

LIZA: Well fashion is a language - arguably the most immediate form of social communication we have. Both fashion and language are systems of signification, capable of revealing, concealing, andoscillating between meaning and absence. I’m drawn to that tension, to the way clothing can seduce, not just through the body but through suggestion, subversion, and double meanings.

 

I like the way Baudrillard talks about seduction and language. He describes seduction as a form of covert power that employs symbols that don’t just communicate, they withhold, tease, and destabilize. The most compelling things exist in that liminal space between revelation and secrecy, inviting interpretation but never fully surrendering to a singular definition. My work operates in that realm—garments that don’t just sit idly on the body but whisper dark little jokes, provoke, and engage on multiple levels—visually, emotionally, conceptually. There’s an immediate sensuality, but beneath that, a quiet pull to look again, to rethink, to be drawn in further.

 

Humor plays a role too! I love the interplay of a half-joke, half-confession. So a printed phrase isn’t just a reference (puns in particular); it’s a provocation, a slip of the tongue that exposes something deeper; some inherent nature or an underlying quality that might otherwise remain hidden. You mentioned the Freudian Slip, which is basically a slip dress (traditionally/historically hovering between modesty and exposure, often existing for the visual pleasure of the male gaze) — but in my one, it’s printed with a naked body and the words “Freudian Slip” at the hip line, playing on the classic linguistic error where an unconscious thought escapes into speech. I think it’s just kinda funny, but it’s also about reframing exposure—both of the body and the psyche. The dress doesn’t just reference Freud; it performs the slip itself, making the wearer a spectacle of revelation, but it does so in a way that recontextualizes that exposure as an act of defiance and provocation. It redirects the gaze from the observer back to the wearer.

 

 

In Georges Bataille's Tears of Eros, one of the themes he discusses is a connection between death, eroticism, and the sacred. Bataille sees sacrifice as a way to access the sacred through violence, mirroring the way eroticism breaks down barriers through transgression. The book seems to be a key influence for you and I noticed in your mood boards a lot of imagery that reflected these themes. What do they mean to you and your work? How does sacrifice relate to this for you?

LIZA: Bataille is my soulmate! Haha. He’s such a tragic thinker, but so raw and enlivening at the same time. I see a lot of his views reflected in myself: a kind of dark romanticism, extreme obsessiveness and a generally anxious disposition.

 

When you read him it’s like you put your finger on the pulse of life. And every now and then you get these kind of annihilating glimpses of the darkness and wilderness of human experience. It’s devastating, and yet it kind of quickens you to life all in the same breath. I love it!

 

The relationship between eroticism and death is likewise central to my work. There’s always this push-and-pull between control and surrender, power and vulnerability. A sense of this drama in motion - veiling and unveiling, and that tension is where desire emerges. Bataille understood that beauty and destruction aren’t opposing forces—they feed into each other, creating something richer, more complex, more dangerous.


 "[...] ‘every now and then you get these kind of annihilating glimpses of the darkness and wilderness of human experience. "

 

BTS, courtesy of Liza Keane 2025


You perfectly describe your clothing as a "sensual second skin and psychological armor." What do you find is powerful about this subversive and transgressive approach to femininity? Do you feel it relates to the simultaneous joy and sorrow Bataille speaks of in Tears of Eros?

LIZA: Absolutely! I think a lot about power—how it’s wielded, how it’s lost, how it fractures when confronted by desire. Personal authority can feel like a hard exterior shell, an armor against destabilizing instincts, but beneath that is something far more gelatinous. My work confronts the contradictions; strength and fragility, self-possession and surrender, and attempts to offer my own vision of wholeness, albeit flawed and unresolved.

 

Also thinking about transgressiveness within my practice; The biggest thing I struggle with is the conflicting desire between wanting to communicate authentically with all the full rawness and complexity of my experiences, and on the other hand the awareness that fashion is inherently predicated on creating aspirational images. Whilst there are different kinds of beauty, in fashion, your job is essentially to make people look hot or “cool” at best. And it’s not that I look down on that at all, but I guess I just find it limiting and get bored if that’s all there is to do at work. So I also feel compelled to feel out the boundaries of current conventions and then push them just a little.

 


  Liza Keane - ruined SS25, bts

 

Hegel sees architecture as the art of enclosing and defining space and sculpture as occupying space in a way that conveys ideal beauty and form. Fashion has long been influenced by both architecture and sculpture; you use sculpture to experiment with pattern-cutting and mould-making. How do you see fashion in relation to space?

 

LIZA: Ok, this is a hard question! Haha. So you mentioned Hegel and my instinctive response is that he’s a bit of party pooper. I associate his kind of thinking with this sort of like hard commitment to reason, beliefs in progress, coming up with universal systems of knowledge etc… And this is all useful to a point, but then I think in many facets of life this is an impoverished worldview. Whilst I respect a certain degree of structure, there's a point where I’d resist these kinds of resolutions in favour of creating space for life’s excesses, irrationality and the more spiritual/emotional realms.

 

You also spoke about his view of sculpture being a representation of an “ideal”. I think this again is quite limiting. Beauty can be found in the unlikeliest of places and fashion as a medium demands that beauty is in constant flux; questioned, pushed and updated. So, whilst I admit striving towards an ideal is a designer's job, I would just complicate the idea of an ideal being fixed and universal.

 

And finally, you asked about how fashion relates to space and I guess the way I see it is that it’s a social kind of interaction that defines power, identity and access. Clothes shape our personal space but also regulate who gets to occupy public, private and symbolic spaces. They can even function as a form of protest, a means of defying categorization or carving out space for something new; whether that’s directly or in more subtle everyday kind of ways. And the later friction is more my niche maybe.

 

 

Similarly, Deconstructionism in philosophy was in dialogue with fashion and produced the deconstruction and anti-fashion of the 80's. Do you feel as though fashion is becoming more intellectual again? Do you feel your work is within this lineage?

LIZA: I think fashion can’t help being intellectual whether it’s aware it’s doing it or not. Because of what we’ve discussed before. And the rest is just different genres of aesthetics.

 

You asked also if I fit into that kind of deconstructionist aesthetic, and I think yes and no. I see my role in fashion as twofold. I want to create images that challenge and push convention, but at the same time I still do care about how the wearer feels in the clothes and I want them to look and feel sexy, although hopefully in a way that respects their integrity and empowers them rather than objectifying.

 

I think maybe where I fit into that style is that I really hate ‘decoration’ and ‘adornment’. I like giving the wearer and their body the spotlight, nothing distracting. If there’s some sort of implicit statement within the clothes, it should feel as though it’s the wearer embodying it to empower themselves. I also like the idea of seducing using only the tools that are immediately available: your mind and your body, rather than relying on external irrelevant glitter, embroideries etc.

 

 "[...] ‘I struggle with [the] conflicting desire between wanting to communicate authentically with all the full rawness and complexity of my experiences, and on the other hand the awareness that fashion is inherently predicated on creating aspirational images "

 

  Liza Keane - PERSONA

 

What does the title of your collection, Ruined mean to you?

LIZA: The title just popped up in my mind one day to be honest. The collection revolves around two characters: one a survivor, the other an antagonist. There’s no heroism here, no clean resolutions—just the weight of aftermath. The survivor isn’t exactly defeated, because she’s still there…but now she’s tainted and worn thin. Not weaker or stronger for having survived, but just something else now. Something more complicated, darker maybe. Embodiment of lost innocence.

 

On a personal level, the collection came about whilst I was struggling through a period of grief. I felt like I was just surviving my days. So there was a lot of defensiveness & self-imposed isolation, punctured by moments of erotic tension & tentative vulnerability. The images reflect that push and pull—raw desire giving way to pain, then swinging back to self-protection. I had no interest in a clichéd ‘final girl’ narrative. This wasn’t about triumph; it was about emotional realism and sitting in the blackness and honoring it.

 

 

What do sustainability and up-cycling mean to your label? How does it relate to your brand's philosophy?

LIZA: Up-cycling is a design tool for me—an intuitive, hands-on way of thinking that allows for risk, unpredictability, and discovery. If you fuck it up, there’s no undo button and there’s no rules to follow, just a constant negotiation between material, form, and chance. So it’s a very intuitive process and you can come up with things that feel really fresh.

 

Sustainability more generally, is a baseline ethical responsibility for me. One obvious example is that my materials are almost entirely natural—silk, leather, cotton—only a handful of garments incorporate technical fabrics like Gore-Tex. It’s not really tied to the brand’s aesthetic philosophy, just a non-negotiable awareness of the consequences of production.

 

 

 

Do you have any future ambitions you would like to share with us?

LIZA: Right now I’m craving a new ‘muse’ to obsess over. I’ve started drawing some stuff for the new season but I still feel like I need another character to flesh out the story.

 

You perfectly describe your clothing as a "sensual second skin and psychological armor." What do you find is powerful about this subversive and transgressive approach to femininity? Do you feel it relates to the simultaneous joy and sorrow Bataille speaks of in Tears of Eros?

LIZA: Absolutely! I think a lot about power—how it’s wielded, how it’s lost, how it fractures when confronted by desire. Personal authority can feel like a hard exterior shell, an armor against destabilizing instincts, but beneath that is something far more gelatinous. My work confronts the contradictions; strength and fragility, self-possession and surrender, and attempts to offer my own vision of wholeness, albeit flawed and unresolved.

 

Also thinking about transgressiveness within my practice; The biggest thing I struggle with is the conflicting desire between wanting to communicate authentically with all the full rawness and complexity of my experiences, and on the other hand the awareness that fashion is inherently predicated on creating aspirational images. Whilst there are different kinds of beauty, in fashion, your job is essentially to make people look hot or “cool” at best. And it’s not that I look down on that at all, but I guess I just find it limiting and get bored if that’s all there is to do at work. So I also feel compelled to feel out the boundaries of current conventions and then push them just a little.

 

 

"[...] ‘I struggle with [the] conflicting desire between wanting to communicate authentically with all the full rawness and complexity of my experiences, and on the other hand the awareness that fashion is inherently predicated on creating aspirational images "

                              ruined, SS25 bts

Hegel sees architecture as the art of enclosing and defining space and sculpture as occupying space in a way that conveys ideal beauty and form. Fashion has long been influenced by both architecture and sculpture; you use sculpture to experiment with pattern-cutting and mould-making. How do you see fashion in relation to space?

LIZA: Ok, this is a hard question! Haha. So you mentioned Hegel and my instinctive response is that he’s a bit of party pooper. I associate his kind of thinking with this sort of like hard commitment to reason, beliefs in progress, coming up with universal systems of knowledge etc… And this is all useful to a point, but then I think in many facets of life this is an impoverished worldview. Whilst I respect a certain degree of structure, there's a point where I’d resist these kinds of resolutions in favour of creating space for life’s excesses, irrationality and the more spiritual/emotional realms.

 

You also spoke about his view of sculpture being a representation of an “ideal”. I think this again is quite limiting. Beauty can be found in the unlikeliest of places and fashion as a medium demands that beauty is in constant flux; questioned, pushed and updated. So, whilst I admit striving towards an ideal is a designer's job, I would just complicate the idea of an ideal being fixed and universal.

 

And finally, you asked about how fashion relates to space and I guess the way I see it is that it’s a social kind of interaction that defines power, identity and access. Clothes shape our personal space but also regulate who gets to occupy public, private and symbolic spaces. They can even function as a form of protest, a means of defying categorization or carving out space for something new; whether that’s directly or in more subtle everyday kind of ways. And the later friction is more my niche maybe.

 

 

Similarly, Deconstructionism in philosophy was in dialogue with fashion and produced the deconstruction and anti-fashion of the 80's. Do you feel as though fashion is becoming more intellectual again? Do you feel your work is within this lineage?

LIZA: I think fashion can’t help being intellectual whether it’s aware it’s doing it or not. Because of what we’ve discussed before. And the rest is just different genres of aesthetics.

 

You asked also if I fit into that kind of deconstructionist aesthetic, and I think yes and no. I see my role in fashion as twofold. I want to create images that challenge and push convention, but at the same time I still do care about how the wearer feels in the clothes and I want them to look and feel sexy, although hopefully in a way that respects their integrity and empowers them rather than objectifying.

 

I think maybe where I fit into that style is that I really hate ‘decoration’ and ‘adornment’. I like giving the wearer and their body the spotlight, nothing distracting. If there’s some sort of implicit statement within the clothes, it should feel as though it’s the wearer embodying it to empower themselves. I also like the idea of seducing using only the tools that are immediately available: your mind and your body, rather than relying on external irrelevant glitter, embroideries etc.

                                              Liza Keane - PERSONA

What does the title of your collection, Ruined mean to you?

LIZA: The title just popped up in my mind one day to be honest. The collection revolves around two characters: one a survivor, the other an antagonist. There’s no heroism here, no clean resolutions—just the weight of aftermath. The survivor isn’t exactly defeated, because she’s still there…but now she’s tainted and worn thin. Not weaker or stronger for having survived, but just something else now. Something more complicated, darker maybe. Embodiment of lost innocence.

 

On a personal level, the collection came about whilst I was struggling through a period of grief. I felt like I was just surviving my days. So there was a lot of defensiveness & self-imposed isolation, punctured by moments of erotic tension & tentative vulnerability. The images reflect that push and pull—raw desire giving way to pain, then swinging back to self-protection. I had no interest in a clichéd ‘final girl’ narrative. This wasn’t about triumph; it was about emotional realism and sitting in the blackness and honoring it.

 

 

What do sustainability and up-cycling mean to your label? How does it relate to your brand's philosophy?

LIZA: Up-cycling is a design tool for me—an intuitive, hands-on way of thinking that allows for risk, unpredictability, and discovery. If you fuck it up, there’s no undo button and there’s no rules to follow, just a constant negotiation between material, form, and chance. So it’s a very intuitive process and you can come up with things that feel really fresh.

 

Sustainability more generally, is a baseline ethical responsibility for me. One obvious example is that my materials are almost entirely natural—silk, leather, cotton—only a handful of garments incorporate technical fabrics like Gore-Tex. It’s not really tied to the brand’s aesthetic philosophy, just a non-negotiable awareness of the consequences of production.

 

 

 

Do you have any future ambitions you would like to share with us?

LIZA: Right now I’m craving a new ‘muse’ to obsess over. I’ve started drawing some stuff for the new season but I still feel like I need another character to flesh out the story.

Liza Keane - used

Interview: Kai Todt

Production: Katy Shayne

 

Date: February 9, 2025

Interview: Kai Todt

Production: Katy Shayne

Date: February 9, 2025